Collection: Healing Creams

Lock in a daily four-step: gentle cleanse → targeted serum (e.g., vitamin C AM, retinoid PM) → moisturiser matched to skin type → SPF 30–50 every morning. At night, skip SPF and use a treatment step (retinoid or azelaic/niacinamide). Exfoliate 1–2× weekly max (AHA/PHA for dry, BHA for oily). Keep it fragrance-light, avoid over-washing, and patch-test new actives. Consistency > intensity: 6–8 weeks beats a weekend overhaul. Hydrate, sleep, manage stress; your skin reads your lifestyle.

Yes. Most unopened products last 24–36 months; opened items typically 6–12 months (look for the PAO jar icon like “12M”). Sunscreens, vitamin C serums, and retinoids degrade faster—heat/light exposure speeds it up. Signs it’s done: colour shift, funky smell, texture separating, stinging where it never did. Store cool, dry, and capped; don’t keep actives in a hot bathroom. When in doubt, toss—old formulas can irritate or underperform.

Same four-step plan, just tuned to your hormones and sensitivity: gentle cleanse, antioxidant AM (vitamin C), retinoid or azelaic PM, then moisturiser + SPF 30–50 daily. Layer hydrating serums around your cycle if you get luteal-phase dryness, and go fragrance-light if your skin gets reactive. Simple, repeatable, results you can see.

Fun for hobbyists, but chemistry still applies. You need preservative systems for water-based products, proper pH, solubilisers/emulsifiers, and stability testing. Oils are simpler (anhydrous balms), but anything with water needs a broad-spectrum preservative to avoid mould/bacteria. If you’re serious, learn GMP basics, use a scale, and follow vetted formulas. For results with less risk, buy pro-made actives and focus DIY energy on accessories (washcloths, masks).

Treat zones differently. Lightweight gel cleanser, niacinamide for balance, BHA on T-zone a few nights, hydrating serum on cheeks, and a mid-weight moisturiser you can spot-apply (more on dry areas). SPF daily. If you’re shiny by noon, layer a mattifying sunscreen or use a silica-based primer. Avoid blanket heavy creams; think “targeted” not “one-texture-fits-all.”

Use a cream cleanser or very gentle gel, then humectants (glycerin/HA), barrier helpers (urea/ceramides), and a richer moisturiser. Introduce retinoids slowly and buffer with cream. Prefer lactic acid or PHA once weekly over strong glycolic. Mist? Only if you seal with moisturiser after. Nighttime occlusion (a thin oil or balm over moisturiser) can reduce TEWL and morning tightness.

Keep the barrier intact (over-stripping = more oil). Gel cleanser, BHA 2–4× weekly, niacinamide daily, gel moisturiser, and a satin-finish SPF. Blotting papers beat constant powdering. If breakouts pop up, add azelaic acid or adapalene (if appropriate) at night. Oil production is normal—control shine, don’t chase zero oil.

They’re the ingredients that do the heavy lifting: retinoids (texture/lines), vitamin C (brightness/antioxidant), niacinamide (oil/balance), azelaic acid (tone/calm), AHAs/PHAs/BHAs (exfoliation), urea (barrier/smooth), peptides (support). Start with one new active at a time, 6–8 weeks per trial, and watch for irritation. Actives work best on consistent schedules and under daily SPF.

Parabens are preservatives used to stop microbial growth. They’re effective at low doses and extend shelf life. Many brands now go paraben-free due to consumer preference; if you’re avoiding them, choose products labelled accordingly. Regardless of preservative type, anything water-based needs one—unpreserved products can grow microbes that irritate skin.

Hydration and glow: days. Texture and breakouts: 4–8 weeks. Pigment and fine lines: 8–12+ weeks. Retinoids and exfoliants often look worse before they look better—buffer, go slow, and stay consistent. Take same-light, no-filter photos every two weeks to track real change.

Emulsions are lightweight moisturisers. Use after serums, before heavier creams/SPF. Two pumps, spread between palms, press over face/neck, then massage lightly. If you’re layering multiple steps, go thinnest to thickest. In humid weather, an emulsion + SPF may be enough.

AM: cleanse (or just rinse) → antioxidant/hydrating serum → moisturiser → SPF.

PM: cleanse → treatment (retinoid/azelaic/niacinamide) → moisturiser.

Weekly: 1–2× gentle exfoliation or a soothing mask. Adjust textures to your skin type and season.

Pick by goal and skin type, not trends. Read the first 10 ingredients (that’s most of the formula), favour fragrance-light, and ensure your actives are at effective ranges. Build a cart that covers cleanse, treat, moisturise, protect—then add extras once the core works.

Pricing varies by line and active strength. In general, vitamin-A step-up systems cost more than basics. Choose the step that matches your current tolerance; there’s no prize for jumping levels. Check product pages for current pricing and look for starter bundles if you’re new.

The practical takeaway: moisturisers and sunscreens dominate baskets; toners are optional and should be purposeful (exfoliating or hydrating). Spend where it counts—SPF and a well-tolerated active—then round out with textures you love so you’ll stay consistent.